It’s no big secret the console players have a significant disadvantage when compared to PC players who have FOV, better FPS, They can jump shot, bunny hop, drop shot at ease, yeah sure, as console players have Aim Assist, but that’s nothing compared to what PC players have. So after reading this content, you will be able to go toe to toe with a PC player. The first model setting you want to change is
Aim Response Curve
This means how the game reacts to your input on the Analog-stick, how fast your camera should accelerate; the Standard one starts with a slow buildup which means it will take some time to reach full speed, which makes doing fast turning much more difficult. This is solved with a linear that has no buildup; it goes full speed immediately. The problem here is that it will make aiming more difficult your aim will become shaky, so it’s rarely used.
And here we get to the big boy dynamic, which gives you the best of both worlds. It has a minimal buildup which allows for accurate aiming solving linear is a shaky aim. But since it’s a small buildup, you accelerate faster than standard, allowing you to make quick turns and when it is very fast. This is the key to competing with PC players.
You should do another thing first, but before that, the dynamic curve also allows you to snap on target once you play with it for a while, building up that muscle memory. It will make it seem like you have an aimbot; combining this setting with a correct Aim Assist is necessary. You want to use precision instead of standard. What it does is make Aim Assist even more robust, and this is extremely useful for snipers. This will do most of the work for you.
The downside is that the radius of the Aim Assist will be smaller compared to the standard. So I wouldn’t recommend this for new players. The New Players should use “Focusing” instead; its Aim Assist is stronger than standard but has a much larger radius convenient for those who are new to controllers.
But when talking about precision what it is also combined with the correct deadzone, it will allow you to snap on target while staying accurate deadzone will enable you to make exact adjustments on your aim just like PC players simply what it does is how much do you need to move your analog stick for the game to register a movement the lower your dead zone, the more accurate you can be. To know what is the best deadzone for you, we need to keep lowering it without any sway in your game. And what that means is your camera moving on its own without you touching the controller. If this happens, slowly increase your deadzone until the aim sway no longer happens.
Sensitivity
Now, most people have a completely wrong understanding of sensitivity. I mean, some of the advice you find on YouTube is entirely wrong and misleading. You can set your Horizontal and Vertical Sensitivity to whatever is most comfortable because that’s what your muscle memory is used to. But obviously, anything below five is shooting yourself in the foot, but the ADS multiplier is where people get it wrong.
To build that muscle memory, you need to keep your High and Low Zoom the same as your Regular Sensitivity. I mean, imagine how weird it feels for your brain when you’re playing with one sensitivity, and you aim downside and all the sudden changes significantly. You need to keep both low and high zoom at one. Don’t even lower it by 1%, But you have to keep it consistent. It will make aiming feel easier and more natural initially; you’ll have to get used to it, but once you do, trust me, you won’t be able to tell the difference between your gameplay and a PC player’s gameplay. Well, there is one last piece to this aimbot puzzle. You got
- The Dynamic Aim,
- the precision Aim Assist
- deadzone and
- the perfect sensitivity
But now, I will show you how you can achieve PC movements with a typical non-scuff controller.
BR Button Layout
when it comes to the bottom layout. I use bumper jumper tactical for my regular PS five control; with this layout, you can jump with the left bumper and crouch slash prone when using the right analog stick, allowing you to jump shots, bunny hop, drop shots, all while aiming accurately.
Now I will say this will take a few hours of gameplay to get used to, but once you do, just like every other change we’ve made so far, you will achieve aimbot-like aiming alongside pro-level movements with a regular controller. Some people might say, why didn’t I tell you to use flip as well? Well, that’s because if you apply all the changes that I’ve mentioned so far and adding flipped on top of it, it will make the next few hours of gameplay feel like you’re learning how to walk again, which is why I recommend using flipped only once you’re able to manage bumper jumper, but we’re not done yet.
There are still a few obscure settings that players don’t bother changing.
First up is slide behavior. You want to change it to tap instead of mold, which will allow you to slide cancel easily.
Secondly, if you’re not using a shotgun, turn on automatic ethical sprint. Lastly, set ROP behavior to apply if you get caught putting on plates; just press triangle or Y to cancel the animation.
